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The sheer molding on the hull (click to open/close)
The next piece to go on the hull is the sheer molding. This molding defines the sheer for the upper hull planking as well as the wale below it. This molding also runs along the outer edge of the waterway we just installed providing neat square holes for the bulkward stanchions to sit in. You want to select a very flexible wood that will be easy to work into a smooth sheer. I selected Yew. English long bows were made of Yew so it's very flexible and extremely strong. You can see I cut a notch in the stem for the end of the sheer molding. Using epoxy, I glued the end of the molding into the notch and to the first section of the waterway. I do this because the molding is difficult to clamp and hold in its notch while bending the molding around the bow. To insure a clean tight fit between the molding and the stem, I glue the joint in place first. This method does not always work because as you bend the rest of the molding to the hull, tension builds at the point where the molding was glued to the waterway and snaps the molding. This happens all the time so it might take a few tries. A few tricks to bending moldings are first use a strong flexible wood and before the epoxy fully cures use a light clamp from the inside edge of the waterway to the outer edge of the molding. This clamp is only used to help support the epoxy joint while the molding is being bent. You want the epoxy joint to give just slightly to ease off the tension from bending. Run some epoxy along the edge of the waterway. Start at mid ship and bend the molding until it touches the hull then work forward. Once the molding is against the hull clamp it. While your watching the glue dry it's a good idea to clean out any epoxy that crept in the stanchion holes. The Yew molding was bent without the aid of soaking it in hot water or using a hot plank bending iron. The first plank to go on the hull is the one that fits between the sheer molding and the wale. The distance between the molding and the wale is 9 inches so I used one wide scale plank of 3/16" x .050.
Bending the plank around the hull (click to open/close)
This plank will have to bend around the hull while twisting to sit flat on the bulkheads. It straightens out at mid ship then bends in to the stern and takes a twist and tuck to the transom. I used epoxy for a quick grab. Using my fingers to hold the plank in place, I first went from bow to mid ship and then from mid ship to the stern. The wales are a heavier timber than the moldings or planking so they are more difficult to bend. On the prototype I used Indian Rosewood. I like this wood because it is almost black in color with slight streaks of dark brown. The wood looks like weathered black paint where the wale rubbed against docks. Indian Rose can't be bent cold like the Yew. The end of the wale is first soaked in hot tap water for about 15 minutes and then clamped to the hull until it dries. The wale will spring back once it is removed from the hull, but will retain enough bend so the final gluing is easy. Just like the molding, cut a notch in the stem to take the end of the wale. Glue only the end of the wale into the notch. Wait until the epoxy grabs (about 15 minutes). Next glue and clamp the wale tight to the edge of the plank and against the hull. At this stage of construction the hull is wide open and it is easier to use spring clamps.

Go to part 4 - BUILDING THE BULWARKS

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